Atop of Honduras

Since I left Pico Bonito last week I did some adventuring in the highlands of Gracias. I´m currently (SPOILER ALERT!) alive and well in Copan Ruinas.



Gracias and Celaque National Park



I arrived in Gracias late and found a simple hostel that charged 7.50$-night. I had a private room with ice cold showers, so I can´t complain. The climate there was pretty pleasant, with temperatures dipping below 60 degrees. I didn´t do much besides hike in Gracias, although I did check out the local square and a very old church.



I decided I wanted to do some hiking before hitting up the ruins, and my guidebook recommended Celaque National Park for a good hike that didn´t require any technical equipment. It also told me that there was a simple, dirty, hut with a few bunks that you could sleep in at one of the campsites near the top. I still tried to rent a sleeping bag but had no luck. I read that the hike could be done in a day, but an overnight hike was more feasible, so I decided to try that.



The morning of my hike, I foolishly did a 10 mile run that went towards the national park. This was rolling for a couple miles and then a mix between slight incline to very steep hills. Like always, the farmers and locals paid little attention to me, and at least twice I get scared shitless my dogs barking at me. The run was good though; foggy and cool.



I finally got to the park at about 10:30 am. I struggled to exchange some money at the bank (I´m the only gringo in town, its not really touristy), mostly since I speak very little Spanish. I also struggled to pronounce the name of the park to the first two cab drivers, but the third understood and brought me 10 kilometers outside of town.



The entrance of the park could very well be northern Wisconsin, definitely not the first image that comes to mind when you think of Honduras. My trek brought me through a pine forest, over a river, and through an hour long stretch of switchbacks. After a few hours I reached the first campsite and realized my book was very, very, incorrect at describing the modest campsite. I still wanted to reach the top, so I was now banking on the next stop being better.



In the midst of the next leg, I ran into the only people I would see during my 22 hours in the forest. They were from, of course, northern Wisconsin. One was even wearing some sort of Spooner, WI shirt. We chatted for a few minutes, I received strange looks after they found out I was planning on sleeping up there, and we parted ways. They surely made it back well before dark; unfortunately, I was in for an entirely different night.



I reached the second campsite at about 3:30. This was slightly better: 3 tarp walls, tarp floor, and tin roof. I figured it was shelter, and I couldn´t hike in the dark, so I would stay. First, though, I had to get to the top. It was only an hour away, and I was in full blown Narniaesque Cloud Forest. It was a veritable labrynth of gigantic mossy trees with birds screaming at me. At 4:30 I reached the top, marked by a simple sign and a Honduran flag. I was disappoingted that I forgot to bring my Wisconsin flag, or at least a Bucky towel or something.



I headed back down and reached my campsite at dark. I put on some dry clothes, but quickly realized I would die of boredom or from the cold. I was at about 2500m, and in a cloud forest, so it was cold (50 degrees F), and wet. At 6pm I decided I would break out my flashlight and walk back down, at least to the next campsite.



Hiking in the dark wasn´t that bad. The most difficult section was down to the next site. It involved a little bit of climbing and hanging on to roots, but it was pretty safe and well marked. I took my time and reached my next destination no worse for wear. At this point, its about 8pm, and I figure that I could get back by 11 if I can hitch to town, maybe 1am if I walk. I continue on.



Everything is going well, until I cross a stream and I thought I was almost done with my trip. Its 10pm, I´ve been walking for 12 hours; combined with my morning run, this has made me foolishly tired. I actually had about 2 hours of walking left, but in my strange psychological state, thought I was almost done. I was convinced there was a trail near the stream, so I kept looking for it. For nearly an hour. I then made a foolish mistake. I went off the trail.



Cliffnotes version: I couldn´t find the trail that I had left, and couldn´t find the visitors center, since it was still two hours away. I was stuck on the side of the mounain, and spent the next 6 hours switching between sleeping on the side of the mountain and aimilessly looking for the trail. I realize that once its light I will be able to easily find the trail again, so I just wait it out eventually.



I wake up at 5am, wait until its light at 6am, find the trail at 6:10, leave the park at 9:30, and get a cab back to town.



Some fun stats:

Hours in the park: 22

Elevation gain¨: 1500m

Peak elevation: 2849m

Cost for 20km of cab rides: 10 US$

Time spent walking or running in the 24 hour period: 20

Time to get to the top: 6 hours

Time spent sleeping: 90 minutes

I´m an idiot.



BUT, I survived, and left Gracias by 12.





Copan Ruinas



I arrived, without incident*, in Ruinas Copan at about 6:30, and found my hostel, Iguana Azul. Its very clean, and I´m staying in a 5 dollar dorm room. Also, they have real, hot water, which is a real plus.



I spent my first day doing very little. I made it a goal to wasteland, so I did some internetting, got some coffee, and some ice cream. Yesterday, I went to Macaw Mountain Bird Park, where they have birds that have been donated or rescued. There was an open area where some birds were let out of their cages, and I got to interact with some toucans and Macaws.



This morning I took a cab out to the Copan Ruins. There was a lot to see, and the museum was interesting as well. There was a short nature trail with labeled trees and macaws all along. I found my favorite tree, the Gumbo Limbo, which I guess the Maya used to cure Poisonwood.



Other highlights of Copan Ruinas (I don´t feel like writing much longer)

I gained 912 feet in about 2.5 miles on my run this morning.

3 kids ran with me for about a half mile on my run.

The election was sunday, and everything went by safely. There seemed to be a lot of partying, fireworks, horn honking, etc. I talked with an international observer of the election, and she was impressed with the efficiency.

Many coffee farms outside of the city.

Stumbled upon a Mayan Toad structure while running.

Cobblestone streets.

Good, cheap platos typical. I got one con carne to celebrate getting into PT school.

Watched Zombieland for a dollar at a hotel. Blatantly pirated, decently funny.



So, that´s all. Tomorrow I head to Antigua, Guatemala, where I will do some Volcano Hiking (with a guide).


!!Check out my flickr for corresponding photos of Macaws, ruins, clouds, Gracias, etc. http://www.flickr.com/photos/44191281@N06/








*With incident. I didn´t get off my bus, since I didn´t realize that I had to switch buses. So, they dropped me off 5 kilometers out of town, and I got to hitch-walk back.